NorahWhen I think of Colorado, I think of jutting mountain peaks, epic views, and crisp alpine lakes. I do not, however, immediately think of canyons. That is to my detriment, because Colorado is home to one of the deepest, steepest canyons in the U.S.: Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. It is awe inspiring, breathtaking, and a little spooky. I had the privilege of stopping at Black Canyon on my recent Colorado road trip, and in this guide I will be breaking down everything I recommend for a full, busy two day itinerary.
What is the weather like in Black Canyon of the Gunnison?
We went to Black Canyon in late June, and it was hot in the day (think lower 80s) and cool at night. During summer, you can expect hot temperatures with occasional thunderstorms; it rained while we were there. During the winter, only the South Rim of the park is open and there are limited activities. You cannot drive past the visitor center in the park during the winter, but seeing the canyon covered in snow is certainly a magical experience. During the spring and fall, services are still limited and the weather is much more mild. The scenic route beyond the visitor center opens mid-April and closes in mid-November, so coordinating your trip to one of these “off season” times ensures you will miss the crowds and have the park basically to yourself.
However, I will say that this is a remarkably quiet park. We went during the heart of the busy summer season and there were very few people. Black Canyon is tricky to photograph, which might explain the lack of crowds. The canyon is jaw droppingly beautiful, so enjoy the solitude and experience a majestic place for yourself.
What reservations do I have to make in advance?
Black Canyon of the Gunnison does not require timed entry, so as long as you have a national parks pass or $30 to purchase a day use pass, you are good to go.
The South Portal Campground (the most popular) requires reservations on Recreation.gov, but the North Portal Campground and the East Portal Campground are first come, first serve. These campsites are in more remote locations, but the pictures look just stunning. We opted to stay in the South Portal campground and were really impressed with the large camping sights, adequate shade, and amphitheater with plentiful evening programs!
The only other thing you would need a reservation for would be a backcountry permit/a hiking permit for hiking down into the canyon. I will explain more about inner canyon hiking below, but those permits and reservations cannot be booked in advance-you must stop by the visitor the day before your anticipated adventures.
What amenities are available in the park?
Very few! During the winter, there is no water available during the park. During the summer, there is water, but only water bottle stations and drinking fountains. There are no flush toilets, no sinks, and no showers. When camping, there is no dish washing station, and all the toilets in the park are pit toilets.
Itinerary
Ok, now the fun stuff! This is a two day itinerary. If you only have one day and are traveling with your family/do not want anything too rigorous and enjoy a more relaxing day, only do Day 1. If you have only one day in the park and are up for a challenge, only do Day 2.
Day 1
You will begin your day entering through the South Rim visitor center. This is the more popular visitor center, given its close proximity to the nearby gateway town of Montrose.
Once you enter the park, you will make your way along the road until you reach Tomichi point. This will be your first view of the canyon, and it is really stunning. This is also a stop point on the Rim Road trail, a relatively flat one mile trail that traverses the rim of the canyon and offers truly spectacular views of the canyon.
Continue on to the visitor center, where you will read and learn about the park and its history. The rangers at the visitor center are also very helpful if you have questions about the park or various hikes.
From the visitor center, you can stroll to the Gunnison Point overlook or complete the longer Oak Flat Loop Trail. The Oak flat Loop Trail is interesting because you get a chance to actually descend into the canyon without the commitment and danger of some of the other inner canyon routes.
After the visitor center, continue along the scenic drive. There are various view points and small spur trails you can stop at along the way. I recommend stopping at all of the overlooks, but my favorites were the Pulpit Rock, Devils Lookout, Painted Wall, and Sunset View.
You will reach the end of the scenic road at Warner Point, and from there you have the option to take a one mile trail to the highest point in the park. From there, you can head back to the Visitor’s Center and the campground.
Day 2
For your second day in the park, the adventure level is going to rise! If you are a capable hiker and confident in your hiking abilities, I really recommend looking into completing one of the inner canyon routes. I have a whole post about the various different hikes and my own experience with the Gunnison Route, but here are some key points:
- The visitor center gives out several permits each day to hike down into the canyon. These permits are available at 3:30 the day before you want to hike, or available day of when the visitor center opens.
- These hikes are very difficult because the canyon is so steep, the trails are unmarked, and there are lots of loose rocks everywhere.
- All of the hikes offer the option to camp at the bottom of the trail, right by the Gunnison River.
- The views are amazing at the bottom, and the whole experience of hiking into the canyon is super cool. I highly, highly recommend it!
If you are an experienced hiker, set aside your second day to explore one of the inner canyon routes. If you are hesitant, the Gunnison Route is the most popular route and has a very clear path to follow.
Depending on which route you choose, the whole hike will take anywhere from 4-6 hours. With the remaining time in your day, I would recommend relaxing at the campsite, taking in the views at an overlook, and just generally taking it easy.
If you have extra time:
- Explore the East Portal area. If you are interested in traversing down to the river but don’t want to hike, the East Portal Road is an awesome option. This driving route is steep, and allows you to drive right down to the start of the canyon. The cliffs will not be quite as steep here, but it is still a stunning area to explore and a great option if you want to see the Gunnison River.
- Explore the North Rim area. The north Rim area is much more remote than the South Rim, but offers some fantastic viewpoints and trails. I would recommend the Chasm View Nature Trail!
- Explore Montrose. Montrose is an adorable gateway town that offers plenty of amenities. I would recommend Back Street Bagels-they have a wonderful green chile bagel and a fantastic cinnamon roll!
I truly cannot recommend Black Canyon of the Gunnison enough, and I hope you have a fantastic trip! Leave any questions below and I will answer them as soon as I can!
